The most prized truffles in the world are harvested in Italy during the fall. San Miniato - in the heart of Tuscany - has its famous truffle festival every November. All year long people prepare for this event, restaurants plan truffle inspired menus, specialty products are developed and truffles are carefully harvested.
Truffles are rarely farmed and in most cases have to be hunted by dogs or pigs (truffle hogs). While dogs have to be trained, they are easier to handle than pigs. Truffle hogs have an innate ability to sniff out the infamous truffles - but they also like to eat them. Some hunters secretively hunt at night, so others will not find their techniques and trails. In many cases, truffle hunting has been in specific families for generations; the secrets, land, recipes and truffle dogs stay in the family.
You may already know that a truffle is a tuber - in Italian it is called 'tartufo' (or plural: tartufi). If you read a menu or see a jarred product that boasts of truffles or tartufo - they are referring to the same mythical fungi. That said, not all truffles are created equal: the infamous white truffle is the most sought after, and shows up on prestigious menus all over the world.
A truffle hunter - called a trifolau - can theoretically hunt year round. January - March is the season for dark winter truffles, March - April is time for tan truffles or bianchetto (which may be sold as the more expensive white truffles to uninformed buyers), June - November is time for the summer black truffle, and September to December is the season for the prized tartufo bianco.
Tuscany's San Miniato (province of Pisa) produces one quarter of Italy's prized white truffle crop. The trifolau gather these gems during October, November and December. Truffle markets and festivals are held in San Miniato during the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th weekends of November (this year you can still go Nov 21, 22 and Nov 27, 28). The National White Truffle Market is bursting with truffle oils and spreads, truffle laced cheeses and meats - and nearby restaurants featuring truffle dishes.
Although the main tent for the festival is in the historical Piazza del Duomo at the foot of the Rocca, every year events and entertainment are added last minute. If you go to the festival, stop by the tourism office in Piazza del Popolo for an updated program. The office will also have a list of restaurants that feature special truffle-based menus for the duration of the festival. Ristorante Canapone on Piazza Bonaparte is known to feature truffle inspired dishes during the event.
A fun fact: San Miniato also boasts the largest white truffle specimen ever found (over 2.5 kilograms); it was presented to President Truman in 1954. While at their famous festival, you can taste and purchase all sorts of truffle products including truffle cheeses, meats, salt, honey, salsas and spreads. If you buy truffles, don't pay a lot for clinging dirt - and smell them before you buy.
If you buy truffles, here are a few hints. Just as new olive oil is best eaten straight - and old oil is best used for cooking - white truffles are best eaten soon after purchase and enjoyed fresh (uncooked), shaved or grated over pasta, eggs or salad. The black truffle's flavors and aromas come to light when they are lightly cooked. Feel free to ask the truffle vendors their opinions, no doubt they will have some brilliant recommendations for how to best enjoy their beloved truffles.
The National White Truffle Market Opening hours: from 9 am to 6.30 pm Via Vittime del Duomo, 8, 56028 San Miniato (PI) Tel: 0571.418739
Email: soc.cons@cittadisanminiato.it
Web: www.cittadisanminiato.it
You can rent a luxury apartment near San Miniano for the truffle festival, or anytime of the year - like this one, Leccino, in Peccioli, where you'll have easy access to the truffle festival. This apartment - in the heart of an organic farm - is nestled ideally between the cities of Pisa, Siena and Florence.
Monday, November 23, 2009
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